Monday, January 22, 2018

Cable Front Jacket - Free USM Pattern

For the Ultimate Sweater Machine® 
Cable Front Jacket 
designed by Kathy Perry 
Level of Difficulty - Intermediate


TECHNIQUE USED: 
Machine Knit
SIZESS (M, L, 1X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTSBust 38 (42, 46, 50)”/96.5 (106.5, 116.5, 126) cmLength 30”/76 cm
YARNCaron® Simply Soft® (100% acrylic, 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m):
Color #9730 Autumn Red (MC), 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins
Caron® Simply Soft® Paints (100% acrylic, 4 oz/133 g, 200 yds/182 m):
Color #0008 Sunset (CC), 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins
KEY PLATEUSM/ISM KP #2, or appropriate tension to obtain gauge
Suitable for USM/ISM/Bond Classic or 6.5 to 9 mm knitting machine
ADDITIONAL MATERIALSUltimate Sweater Machine® 
Latch tool
Single-prong transfer tool
Two 2-prong transfer tools
Yarn needle

GAUGEIn Stockinette stitch using MC, 15 sts and 20 rows = 4”/10 cmIn Stockinette stitch using CC, 15 sts and 20 rows = 4”/10 cmIn Cable Band pattern, using MC, 28 sts and 33 rows = 6"/15 cm
KNIT STITCHES USED
  • Stockinette stitch (st st): Knit side = RS
  • 2x2 rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
  • Drop down and convert 2 sts of every 4 to create a knit 2, purl 2 rib.
  • 2x2 Left-Cross Cable: Remove 4 selected sts using two 2-prong transfer tools; cross sts replace on ndls so that left sts are under right sts.
  • 2x2 Right-Cross Cable: Work as above with right sts under left sts.
Cable Band Pattern (worked on 28 sts)
  • Rows 1, 3, 7, 9: K6, p4, k8, p4, k6.
  • Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: Knit the knits sts, purl the purl sts.
  • Row 5: K2, 2x2 RC, p4, 2x2 LC, 2x2 RC, p4, 2x2  RC, k2.
  • Row 11: K6, p4, 4-st RC, 4-st LC, p4, k6.
  • Row 12: Repeat Row 2.
  • Repeat Rows 1-12 for Cable Band pattern.
Note #1: The three top pieces are knitted horizontally from side to side. The three bottom pieces are knitted vertically.
Note #2: Ribbing can be hand knitted and grafted onto finished garment if desired.
NEEDLES REQUIRED: 34 (38, 42, 46)  
BACK TOP
  • Using CC and closed-edge CO Method, CO 30 (34, 38, 38) sts.. 
  • Begin with left sleeve, work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. RC=06. Place a marker at end of RS row for upper edge. Change to St st.
  • Shape top edge: Note: Inc 1 st at upper edge on next row, then every foll 3 (4, 6, 6) rows 9 (15, 13,13) times and every 4 (7, 0, 0) rows 12 (2, 0, 0) times; AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 12" from beginning mark for left sleeve – 52 sts. Work even until piece measures 16 1/2 (17, 17 1/2, 18)" from beginning. RC=82 (84, 88, 90). Place marker for beg of neck. 
  • Work even until piece measures 10 (11, 12, 13)" from neck marker and place another marker for end of neck. RC=132 (140, 148, 155).
  • Shape top edge: Dec 1 st at upper edge on next row, then every foll 3 (4, 6, 6) rows 9 (15, 13, 13) times and every 4 (7, 0, 0) rows 12 (2, 0, 0) times -- 30 (34, 38, 38) sts.
  • Work even until piece measures 42 (44, 46, 48)" from beginning. RC=210 (220, 230, 240).
  • Work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. BO. Measure 12" from final rib bottom and mark for right sleeve.
RIGHT FRONT TOP 
  • Using CC, and closed-edge CO method, CO 30 (34, 38, 38) sts. 
  • Begin with right sleeve, work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. RC=06. Place marker at end of RS row for upper edge. Change to St st.
  • Shape top edge: Inc 1 st at upper edge on next row, then every foll 3 (4, 6, 6) rows 9 (15, 13, 13) times and every 4 (7, 0, 0) rows 12 (2, 0, 0) times; AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 12"  from beginning, mark for sleeve – 52 sts. 
  • Work even until piece measures 16 1/2 (17, 17 1/2, 18)" from beginning. RC=82 (84, 88, 90). BO. 
LEFT FRONT TOP 
  • Work as for Right Front Top, reversing all shaping.
BACK BOTTOM 
  • Using MC and closed-edge CO method, CO 98 (106, 114, 122) sts. 
  • Work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. RC=06. Change to St st
  • Shape sides: Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every foll 13 rows 5 times -- 86 (94, 102, 110) sts.
  • Work even until piece measures 15 1/2" from beginning. RC=78.
  • Next row: K, dec 13 (14, 14, 15) sts evenly across -- 73 (80, 88, 95) sts. Work 1 row. BO. 
RIGHT FRONT BOTTOM 
  • Using MC and closed-edge CO method, CO 34 (38, 42, 46) sts. 
  • Work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. RC=06. Change to St st.
  • Shape side: Dec 1 st at outside edge (end of RS row) on next row, then every foll 13 rows 5 times – 28 (32, 36, 40) sts. 
  • Work even until piece measures 15 1/2" from beginning. RC=78. 
  • Next row: K, dec 9 (11, 13, 15) sts evenly across -- 19 (21, 23, 25) sts. Work 1 row. BO.
LEFT FRONT BOTTOM 
  • Work as for Right Front Bottom, reversing all shaping.
CABLE BAND
  • Using MC and closed-edge CO method, CO 30 sts.
  • Work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. RC=06.
  • Change to Cable Band pattern and dec 1 st at each end of next row -- 28 sts.
  • Work Cable Band pattern until piece measures approximately 74 (74, 76 1/2, 76 1/2)" from beginning, ending on pattern row 12 and inc 1 st each end -- 30 sts. RC=370 (370, 382, 382).
  • Work in 2x2 rib for 6 rows. BO.
FINISHING
  • Sew Front tops to Back top from ribbing to neck markers forming shoulder/ sleeve seams. 
  • Sew Back Bottom to Back Top, gathering piece as necessary to fit between sleeve markers.
  • Sew Front bottoms to Front tops, gathering pieces as necessary stopping at sleeve markers.
  • Sew side and underarm seams.
  • Pin Cable Band in place, starting at Front bottoms on both sides. Seam to Front bottoms first, then cont around top and neck, stretching Cable Band to fit as necessary. NOTE: Center front (outside) edge of Cable Band rolls to inside.
  • Weave in ends. Block and steam lightly.

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