Monday, January 22, 2018

Cabled Fabric Jacket - Free USM Pattern

For the Ultimate Sweater Machine® 
Cabled Fabric Jacket 
designed by Kathy Perry 
Level of Difficulty - Intermediate

TECHNIQUE USED: 
Machine knit, with crochet 
SIZESS (M, L, 1X, 2X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTSBust 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)"/96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cmLength 25 (25 1/2, 26, 26 1/2, 27)"/63.5 (65, 66, 67.5, 68.5) cm 
MATERIALS: 
Ultimate Sweater Machine®

YARN
NaturallyCaron.com Country from Caron ® International (25% Merino Wool, 75% Microdenier Acrylic): 14 (16, 18, 20, 21) oz            Shown in: #0018 Spice House

KEY PLATEUSM/ISM KP#2, or appropriate tension to obtain gauge
Suitable for USM/ISM/Bond Classic or 6.5 to 9 mm knitting machine

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
Latch tool
Single-prong transfer tool
Two 2-prong transfer tools
Crochet hook H-8 (5 mm)
Yarn needle
Six 3/4" Buttons 
GAUGEIn Stockinette stitch, 17 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10 cmIn Cable Fabric stitch, 19 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10 cm
KNIT STITCHES USEDStockinette stitch (St st): Knit side = RS.

2x2 Left-Cross Cable: Remove 4 selected sts using two 2-prong transfer tools; cross sts and replace on ndls so that left sts are under right sts.

2x2 Right-Cross Cable: Work as above with right sts under left sts. 

Cable Panels and Bands
CROCHET STITCHES USEDChain (ch):Begin by making a slip knot on your hook. * Wrap the yarn around the hook (yarn over) and pull up a loop, [draw the yarn through the loop on the hook to form the first chain]. Repeat from * for desired length.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
NEEDLES REQUIRED: 84 (92, 100, 110, 118) 
BACK
  • Using Chain CO Method, CO 84 (92, 100, 110, 118) sts. COR. RC=000.
  • K to RC=018 (018, 016, 016, 016).
  • Beg Cable Patt: Use Jacket Chart for Back, centering cables on both sides of -0- at ndls 16-19 (16-19, 21-24, 21-24, 26-29); and AT THE SAME TIME,
  • Shape Waist: Dec 1 st ea side this row and every foll 12th R 2 times; inc 1 st on ea side on foll 8th R once and every foll 12th R 2 times. RC=075 (075, 073, 073, 073).
  • K to RC=090 (090, 090, 090, 094).
  • Shape Armholes: BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 R. 
  • Dec 1 st ea side EOR 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) times—60 (64, 68, 74, 78) sts rem. RC= 108 (112, 114, 118, 124).
  • K to RC=126 (130, 132, 134, 138).                    
  • Shape Neck: BO center 24 (24, 24, 26, 28) sts for Back neck—18 (20, 22, 24, 25) sts rem ea side for shoulders.
  • COR. Place LHS ndls in HP. 
  • Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 7 (7, 8, 7, 7) times—11 (13, 14, 17, 18) sts rem for shoulder.  
  • K to RC=136 (138, 142, 144, 146).
  • Shape Shoulders: At armhole edge, BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 6) sts at beg of next 2 R.
  • BO rem sts.
  • Repeat Neck Shaping for LHS.
RIGHT FRONT
  • Using Chain CO Method, CO 31 (36, 40, 44, 49) sts. COR. RC=000. 
  • K to RC=018 (018, 016, 016, 016)                         
  • Beg Cable Patt: Work as for Back using Chart for Right Front (center cables at -0-); and AT THE SAME TIME, 
  • Shape Waist: Work as for Back at RHS only.
  • K to RC=090 (090, 090, 090, 094).
  • Shape Armhole: Work as for Back at RHS only; and AT SAME TIME at RC=097 (102, 108, 108, 108), beg neck shaping.
  • Shape Neck: At neck edge, dec 1 st on next R, then every 4 (4, 3, 3, 2) R 6 (8, 7, 7, 5) times, every 10 (0, 4, 9, 5) rows 1 (0, 2, 1, 5) time(s)—11 (13, 14, 17, 18) sts rem for shoulder. 
  • K to RC=136 (138, 142, 144, 146).
  • Shape Shoulder: Work as for Back.
LEFT FRONT 
Work as for Right Front, reversing all shaping.
SLEEVES
  • Using Chain CO Method, CO 56 (62, 66, 70, 74) sts. COR. RC=000.
  • K to RC=014.
  • Shape Cap: BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts beg next 2 R. 
  • Dec 1 st ea side ER 1 (2, 2, 3, 4) time(s), EOR 13 (14, 14, 15, 13) times, then ER 1 (2, 2, 2, 4) time(s)—18 (18, 20, 20, 20) sts rem. RC=044 (048, 048, 051, 050).
  • BO loosely.
  • Mark center of lower edge for placement of Sleeve Band.
SLEEVE BANDS (Make 2)
  • Using Chain CO Method, CO 18 sts. COR. RC=000.
  • Beg Cable stitch from Bands Chart; work to RC=084 (092, 096, 104, 108).
  • BO using Chain st.
  • Mark one end for 1 1/2" overlap.
JACKET BAND (Make 1)
  • Using Chain CO Method, CO 18 sts. COR. RC=000. 
  • Beg Cable stitch from Bands Chart; work to RC=356 (364, 372, 380, 388).
  • BO using Chain st.
FINISHING
  • Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves, easing as necessary.
  • Sew sleeve and side seams.
  • Sleeve Bands: Pin Sleeve Bands to lower edge of Sleeves so that they come together at mark with a 1 1/2" Front to Back overlap; sew Bands in place.
  • Sew 2 buttons on ea Sleeve Band (see photo).
  • Jacket Band: Pin in place around center Fronts and neck shaping; sew seam, easing as necessary.
  • Try on Jacket and mark positions for 2 buttons (left-hand side) and 2 buttonholes (right-hand side) at waistline.
  • Beg at center Back, work 1 R sc around Jacket.  Add button loops on right Front at markers by working 3 ch sts between sc sts, skipping 3 sts under the ch-3.
  • Using yarn needle, weave in ends.
  • Sew on buttons, opposite loops.

  • Steam lightly, being careful not to flatten texture.


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