Empire Coat
Level of Difficulty: IntermediateDesigned by Kathy Perry
SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)
Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Bust
34 (38, 42, 46, 50)”/86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 116.5, 127) cmLength
34 1/2 (35, 36, 37, 38)"/87.5 (91.5, 94, 96.5) cm
YARN Caron International's Simply Soft® Shadows (100 acrylic; 3oz/85g, 150yds/137m):
#0004 Autumn (MY), 9 (9, 10, 10, 11) skeins
#0004 Autumn (MY), 9 (9, 10, 10, 11) skeins
Note: Extra yarn is allowed to match color changes if desired. Yarn has subtle self stripes. In order to match stripes, start fronts and sleeves at same color section if desired. Stripes will not match at side seams.
KEYPLATE USM/ISM KP#2 or appropriate tension to obtain gauge
Suitable for USM/ISM/Bond Classic or 6.5 to 9 mm knitting machine
Suitable for USM/ISM/Bond Classic or 6.5 to 9 mm knitting machine
NEEDLES One pair US size 8 (5 mm) needles for hand-knit Seed st belt
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
Waste yarn (WY)
Transfer tool
Latch tool
Crochet hook size H-8 (5 mm)
Yarn needle
8 buttons
4 large snaps
Sewing needle and matching thread
GAUGE In Stockinette stitch, using KP#2, 17 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm
In Seed stitch, using US size 8 needles, 17 sts and 27 rows = 4"/10 cm
STITCHES USED
Stockinette stitch (St st)
Seed stitch (Seed st -- by hand on Belt and by machine on optional
Pockets)Single crochet (sc): Insert hook in stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
SEED STITCH(even number of sts)
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep rows 1 and 2 for Seed st.
NEEDLES REQUIRED: 86 (94, 102, 112, 120)
BACK
1. Using open CO Method, KP#2 and WY, CO 86 (94, 102, 112, 120) sts. COR.
2. Work 6 rows.
3. Set RC=000.
4. Hem: Join MY, K 6 rows and convert last row to purl (for turning row).
5. K 6 rows.
7. Using transfer tool, lift sts from first row up onto the ndls.
8. K 1 row slowly. RC=013.9. Reset RC=000.10. Work 2 (4, 2, 6, 4) rows.
Shape Sides
11. Dec 1 st at beg of next 2 rows, then 1 st ea side every foll 30 (30, 31, 24, 32) rows 4 (4, 4, 5, 4) times – 76 (84, 92, 100, 110) sts. RC=124 (126, 128, 128, 134).
12. Work to RC=146 (148, 150, 152, 158).
Shape Armholes
13. BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
14. Dec 1 st ea side EOR 5 (6, 9, 9, 12) times – 58 (64, 66, 72, 76) sts. RC=158 (162, 170, 172, 184).
15. Work to RC=194 (198, 204, 210, 216).
Shape Shoulders
16. BO 8 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next 2 (4, 4, 4, 2) rows, then 9 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 (2, 2, 2, 4) rows.
17. BO rem 24 (26, 28, 28, 30) sts for back neck. RC=198 (204, 210, 216, 222)
LEFT FRONT (Note: Before starting see optional vertical pockets)
1. Using open CO Method, KP#2 and WY, CO 52 (56, 61, 65, 69) sts. COR.
2. Work 6 rows.
3. Set RC=000.
4. Work hem and turning ridge same as Back.
5. Work as for back, shaping at side edge only, working to RC=174 (186, 192, 198, 204) -- 38 (41, 43, 45, 47) sts.
Shape Neck
6. COR. BO 14 (14, 15, 15, 16) sts for neck edge and overlap.
7. Dec 1 st at neck edge ER 7 (8, 9, 8, 8) times – 17 (19, 19, 22, 23) sts.
8. Work to RC=194 (198, 204, 210, 216).
Shape Shoulders
9. BO as for back.
Measure and mark placement of 4 front edge buttons -- starting approx 3/4" down from neckline and 3 1/4 (3 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/2, 3 3/4)" from Front opening.
The bottom button should be in the center of the empire waist position.
These 4 buttons will have corresponding buttonholes. The rem 4 side buttons will have snaps underneath.
9. BO as for back.
Measure and mark placement of 4 front edge buttons -- starting approx 3/4" down from neckline and 3 1/4 (3 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/2, 3 3/4)" from Front opening.
The bottom button should be in the center of the empire waist position.
These 4 buttons will have corresponding buttonholes. The rem 4 side buttons will have snaps underneath.
RIGHT FRONT
Work as for left front, reversing all shaping; AT SAME TIME work buttonholes.
Buttonholes: Work to row you want buttonhole to begin.
COL. Work 5 sts. Knit by hand with WY over next 4 sts for buttonhole opening. Join new MY to finish row. Continue working to next buttonhole and repeat.
(To finish buttonhole, remove WY and backstitch through the open loops, using a length of MY and yarn ndl.)
Work as for left front, reversing all shaping; AT SAME TIME work buttonholes.
Buttonholes: Work to row you want buttonhole to begin.
COL. Work 5 sts. Knit by hand with WY over next 4 sts for buttonhole opening. Join new MY to finish row. Continue working to next buttonhole and repeat.
(To finish buttonhole, remove WY and backstitch through the open loops, using a length of MY and yarn ndl.)
SLEEVES
1. Using open CO Method, KP#2 and WY, CO 54 (58, 62, 66, 70) sts. COR.
2. Work 6 rows.
3. Set RC=000.
4. Hem: Work as for Back. Reset RC=000
5. Inc 1 st ea side every 22 (22, 23, 19, 19) rows 1 (1, 1, 4, 3) times, then every 23 (23, 24, 0 20) rows 2 (2, 2, 0, 1) times -- 60 (64, 68, 74, 78) sts. RC=068 (068, 071, 076, 077).
6. Work to RC=108 (108, 110, 110, 114).
1. Using open CO Method, KP#2 and WY, CO 54 (58, 62, 66, 70) sts. COR.
2. Work 6 rows.
3. Set RC=000.
4. Hem: Work as for Back. Reset RC=000
5. Inc 1 st ea side every 22 (22, 23, 19, 19) rows 1 (1, 1, 4, 3) times, then every 23 (23, 24, 0 20) rows 2 (2, 2, 0, 1) times -- 60 (64, 68, 74, 78) sts. RC=068 (068, 071, 076, 077).
6. Work to RC=108 (108, 110, 110, 114).
Shape Cap
7. BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
8. Dec 1 st ea side ER 5 (5, 4, 5, 7) times, EOR 8 (9, 12, 12, 9) times, then ER 5 (5, 4, 5, 7) times - 16 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts. RC=136 (138, 144, 146, 148). BO rem sts.
7. BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
8. Dec 1 st ea side ER 5 (5, 4, 5, 7) times, EOR 8 (9, 12, 12, 9) times, then ER 5 (5, 4, 5, 7) times - 16 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts. RC=136 (138, 144, 146, 148). BO rem sts.
BELT (by hand)
1. Using size 8 ndls, CO 166 (182, 200, 216, 234) sts.
2. Work in Seed st for 1 1/4".
3. Make a 4-st buttonhole.
4. Work even until belt measures 2 1/2" from beg and BO.
1. Using size 8 ndls, CO 166 (182, 200, 216, 234) sts.
2. Work in Seed st for 1 1/4".
3. Make a 4-st buttonhole.
4. Work even until belt measures 2 1/2" from beg and BO.
Buttonhole (by hand):
Row 1: Work 5 sts from front edge and BO next 4 sts for buttonhole.
Row 2: Work to BO sts, CO 4 sts using single CO method.Row 3: Work sts through back loops to tighten them.
Row 1: Work 5 sts from front edge and BO next 4 sts for buttonhole.
Row 2: Work to BO sts, CO 4 sts using single CO method.Row 3: Work sts through back loops to tighten them.
OPTIONAL VERTICAL POCKETS (Make 2)
LEFT FRONT 1. Follow left front instructions and work to RC=064 (070, 076, 082, 088).
2. Vertical Opening: COR. Work 36 sts and put rem sts on WY.
3. Work to RC=094 (100, 106, 112, 118) keeping 8 pocket opening edge sts in Seed st for band. Put sts on WY.
4. Reset RC=064 (070, 076, 082, 088).
5. Lining: Rehang first group of WY sts and CO an additional 25 sts on RS.
6. Work to RC=094 (100, 106, 112, 118) and remove to WY.
7. Rejoin: Hang sts from both WY pieces so that additional 25 lining sts are overlapping (sharing ndls with) front sts. (i.e. these sts will be hidden by front sts.)
8. Cont with RIGHT front instructions.
2. Vertical Opening: COR. Work 36 sts and put rem sts on WY.
3. Work to RC=094 (100, 106, 112, 118) keeping 8 pocket opening edge sts in Seed st for band. Put sts on WY.
4. Reset RC=064 (070, 076, 082, 088).
5. Lining: Rehang first group of WY sts and CO an additional 25 sts on RS.
6. Work to RC=094 (100, 106, 112, 118) and remove to WY.
7. Rejoin: Hang sts from both WY pieces so that additional 25 lining sts are overlapping (sharing ndls with) front sts. (i.e. these sts will be hidden by front sts.)
8. Cont with RIGHT front instructions.
RIGHT FRONT Work as for left front, reversing instructions.
FINISHING
1. Block pieces to measurements, if desired.
2. Tack pocket linings in place and finish pockets.
3. Sew shoulder seams.
4. Sew sleeves in place and sew underarm seams.
5. Fold hems to inside and tack in place.
Try on coat and pin belt in place matching bottom buttonhole on garment to buttonhole on belt.
(Belt should be in empire position and will need to be stretched slightly to fit.)
Tack in place with invisible sts.
Tack buttonholes tog at belt and bottom front edge.
Work 2 rows sc evenly on fronts and around neckline, join with slip st in first sc..
Finish buttonholes and sew on buttons.
Sew snaps under 4 side buttons.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends and steam lightly.
1. Block pieces to measurements, if desired.
2. Tack pocket linings in place and finish pockets.
3. Sew shoulder seams.
4. Sew sleeves in place and sew underarm seams.
5. Fold hems to inside and tack in place.
Try on coat and pin belt in place matching bottom buttonhole on garment to buttonhole on belt.
(Belt should be in empire position and will need to be stretched slightly to fit.)
Tack in place with invisible sts.
Tack buttonholes tog at belt and bottom front edge.
Work 2 rows sc evenly on fronts and around neckline, join with slip st in first sc..
Finish buttonholes and sew on buttons.
Sew snaps under 4 side buttons.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends and steam lightly.
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