Sunday, September 23, 2018

Black & White Fabulous Vest/Pullover/Skirt - Free USM Patterns

For the Ultimate Sweater Machine® 
Black, White & Fabulous 
Vest, Pullover and Skirt
Designed by Cari Clement 
level of difficulty: intermediate
SIZES:  
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)




VEST FINISHED MEASUREMENTSChest 38 (40, 42, 44, 46)"Length 51 1/2 (51 1/2, 52, 52 1/2, 53)"

PULLOVER FINISHED MEASUREMENTSChest 36 (38, 40, 42, 44)"Length 23 1/2 (24, 24 1/2, 26, 26)"

SKIRT FINISHED MEASUREMENTSWaist 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"Hip 38 (40, 43, 44, 46)"Length 35", all sizes

YARN
  • Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m):
  • #9727 Black (MC) 
  • #9701 White (CC)
  • Vest Solid Version: 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) skeins MC; 1 skein CC
  • Vest Striped Version: 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins MC; 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins CC
  • Pullover Solid Version: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) skeins MC
  • Pullover Striped Version: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins MC; 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins CC
  • Skirt Solid Version: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) skeins MC
  • Skirt Striped Version: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) skeins MC; 1 skein CC
HAND KNITTING – NEEDLES
  • Vest and Skirt: One pair US size 8 (5 mm), or size to obtain gauge 
  • Pullover: One pair US size 5 and 7 (3.75 and 4.5 mm), or size to obtain gauge 
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
  • All pieces: Tapestry needle (tn); row counter (optional)
  • Pullover: Stitch markers; stitch holders
  • Skirt: 1" wide no-roll elastic – 1 (1 1/4, 1 1/4, 1 1/4, 1 1/4) yds for waist 
GAUGE
  • Vest and Skirt: In Stockinette stitch, using US size 8 (5 mm) needles, 18 sts and 24 rows = 4"/10 cm
  • Pullover: In Stockinette stitch, using US size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, 19 sts and 24 rows = 4"/10 cm
STITCHES USED
  • Stockinette stitch (St st): Knit all sts on RS, purl all sts on WS.
  • 1x1 Rib (even number of sts)
  • Row 1: * K1, p1; rep from * across. 
  • Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you. 
  • Rep Row 2 for 1x1 rib. 
MACHINE KNITTING – KEYPLATES
Ultimate Sweater Machine®
All pieces: USM/ISM KP#2, or size to obtain gauge
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
All pieces: Tapestry needle (tn); waste yarn (WY); latch tool; row counter
Skirt: 1" wide no-roll elastic – 1 (1 1/4, 1 1/4, 1 1/4, 1 1/4) yds for waist 
GAUGEAll pieces: In Stockinette stitch, using USM/ISM KP#2, 19 sts and 25 R = 4"/10 cm
STITCHES USED
  • Stockinette stitch (St st): Knit side = RS.
  • 1X1 rib (even number of sts)
  • Work number of rows indicated in instructions. Using latch tool, drop down and convert every other stitch to knit st across row.
NEEDLES REQUIRED
Vest: 114 (114, 118, 124, 128)
Pullover: 90 (94, 102, 106, 114)
Skirt: 90 (96, 100, 106, 110)
NOTES – Hand and Machine
Vest: Striped Version – alternate 6 rows MC and 6 rows CC throughout; work armhole and Front bands in MC. Vest: Solid Version – work in MC throughout; work armhole and Front bands in CC.
Vest Hood: Straight edge is Front edge, shaped edge is seam edge, and CO/BO edges are neck edges.
Pullover: Striped Version – alternate 2 rows MC and 2 rows CC throughout.
Pullover: Solid Version – work in MC throughout.
Skirt is worked from the waist down in 2 panels with a fold over casing for waist elastic.
Skirt: Striped version – At 29 1/4" from folded casing edge [RC=188], beg Stripe Sequence as for Pullover, alternating 2 rows of MC and 2 rows CC; end 2 rows MC.Skirt: Solid Version – work in MC throughout.

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VEST – HAND KNIT VERSION
BACK
Note: For Striped Version, see Notes.
Using MC, CO 108 (108, 114, 118, 122) sts.(RS) Begin 1x1 rib; work even until piece measures 1" from beginning, end with a WS row.Change to St st.
Shape Sides(RS) Working 1 st in from edge, dec 1 st each side this row, then every 20 (24, 24, 24, 24) rows 11 (9, 9, 9, 9) times—86 90, 96, 100, 104) sts remain.Work even until piece measures 41" from the beginning, end with a WS row.
Shape Armholes(RS) BO 7 (7, 8, 8, 8) sts at beginning of next 2 rows—72 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts remain.(RS) Dec 1 st each side every row 5 (6, 6, 6, 6) times, then every other row 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) times— 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) sts remain.Work even until armhole measures 9 1/2 (9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, 11)" from beginning of shaping, end with a WS row.
Shape Shoulders and Neck(RS) BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts at beginning of next 4 (6, 2, 2, 4) rows, then 4 (0, 5, 5, 5) sts at beginning of next 2 (0, 4, 4, 2) rows for shoulders—28 (28, 28, 30, 30) sts remaining for Back neck. BO remaining sts.
LEFT FRONTUsing MC, CO 53 (53, 55, 57, 59) sts.
(RS) Work as for Back, working side shaping at beg of RS rows only, until piece measures same as Back to armhole, end with a WS row—42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts remain.
Shape Armhole
As for Back at armhole edge (beg of RS rows)—27 (28, 28, 29, 30) sts remain.Work even until armhole measures 7 1/2 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9)" from beg of shaping, end with a RS row.
Shape Neck
(WS) BO 6 (7, 7, 7, 7) sts, work to end. Work 1 row even.At neck edge (beg of WS rows, end of RS rows), dec 1 st every row 5 (4, 3, 4, 4) times, then at neck edge, dec 1 st every other row 2 times— 14 (15, 16, 16, 17) sts remain for shoulder.Work even until armhole measures same as Back to shoulder shaping, end with a WS.
Shape ShoulderAs for Back at beg of RS rows.
RIGHT FRONTWork as for left Front, rev all shaping by working side, armhole and shoulder shaping at beg of WS rows; neck shaping at beg of RS rows.
HOOD
Note: Place a marker (pm) at end of first row for Back-seam edge; work all shaping at this edge (see schematic). Work Front edge even throughout.
Using MC, CO 6 sts.
(WS) Begin St st; purl 1 row, ending at Back-seam edge.
Shape Hood
Inc 1 st at Back-seam edge (beg of RS rows, end of WS rows) every row 18 times—24 sts, ending with WS row.
(RS) CO 12 st at beg of row, work to end—36 sts; pm at shaped edge on this row (marker A).
Work 1 row even.
(RS) Inc 1 st this at beg of this row, then every other row once, every 4 rows 13 times—51 sts.
Work 2 rows even.
At Back-seam edge, dec 1 st every row 19 times—32 sts remain.
Work 1 row even; mark row at both ends for center fold line.
Work 1 row even.
At Back-seam edge, inc 1 st every row 19 times—51 sts.
Work 2 rows even.
Dec 1 st every 4 rows 13 times, every other row twice—36 sts remain.
Work 1 row even, ending with WS row; pm at shaped edge on this row (marker B).
(RS) BO 12 st at beg of row, work to end—24 sts remain.
Work 1 row even.
Dec 1 st every row 18 times—6 sts remain.
BO remaining sts.
Fold at center fold line, aligning markers A and B; sew seam between fold and markers, aligning stripes, if necessary.
Front BandUsing appropriate color (see note at beg of instructions), CO 11 sts.
Row 1 (RS):K2, *p1, k1; rep from *across, ending last repeat k2 instead of k1.
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you.
Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 130 (130, 131, 132, 133)" from beg.
BO all sts loosely in rib.
Armhole Bands (make 2)
Work as for Front band until piece measures 21 (22, 22 1/2, 24, 24 1/2)" from beg. BO all sts loosely in rib.
FINISHING
  1. Sew shoulder seams. 
  2. Sew armhole bands to vest.
  3. Sew side seams, aligning stripes if necessary, and armhole band seam.
  4. Ease Hood around neck shaping; sew in place.
  5. Sew Front band around entire Front and Hood, aligning center of band with center fold of Hood, and ends with lower edge of right and left Fronts.
  6. Using tn, weave in ends. 


VEST – MACHINE KNIT VERSION
BACK
For Striped Version, see Notes at beginning of instructions.
  1. Starting at LHS, using closed edge CO method and MC, CO 114 (114, 118, 124, 128) sts. RC=000.
  2. K 6 R. Convert to 1x1 rib. If working Striped version, follow color sequence in notes. 
  3. K 1 R.
  4. Dec 1 st ea side, E 18 (24, 24, 22, 24) R, 2 (2, 2, 4, 2) times. 
  5. Dec 1 st ea side E 20 (26, 26, 24, 26) R, 10 (7, 7, 6, 7) times. 90 (96, 100, 104, 110) sts.
  6. K to RC=260. Reset RC=000.
  7. Shape armhole: BO 7 (8, 8, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 R.
  8. Dec 1 st ea side every R 5 (6, 6, 6, 6) times.
  9. Dec 1 st ea side EOR 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) times. 60 (60, 64, 66, 68) sts. 
  10. K to RC=060 (060, 064, 068, 070).
  11. Shape Shoulder: At armhole edge, BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts ea edge 3 (3, 2, 2, 3) times.
  12. BO 0 (0, 5, 5, 0) sts, 0 (0, 1, 1, 0) times. 
  13. BO rem 30 (30, 30, 32, 32) sts.
FRONT (make 2, reversing shaping on second front)
Note: Work side and armhole shaping at armhole edge only, keeping center front straight.
  1. Starting at LHS, using closed edge CO method and MC, CO 54 (55, 57, 60, 61) sts. RC=000.
  2. K 6 R. Convert to 1x1 rib. If working Striped version, follow color sequence in notes. 
  3. Starting with foll R, dec 1 st ea side, E 18 (24, 24, 22, 24) R, 2 (2, 2, 4, 2) times. 
  4. Dec 1 st ea side E 20 (26, 26, 24, 26) R, 10 (7, 7, 6, 7) times. 42 (46, 48, 50, 52) sts.
  5. K to RC=260. Reset RC=000.
  6. Shape armhole: BO 7 (8, 8, 8, 9) sts on next R.
  7. Dec 1 st every R 5 (6, 6, 6, 6) times.
  8. Dec 1 st EOR 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) times. 27 (28, 30, 31, 31) sts. 
  9. K to RC=048 (048, 052, 056, 058).
  10. Shape Neck: At neck edge (center front), BO 6 (7, 7, 7, 7) sts.
  11. Dec 1 st at neck edge, every R 4 (4, 4, 5, 4) times.
  12. Dec 1 st at neck edge, EOR 2 times. 
  13. K to RC=060 (060, 064, 068, 070).
  14. Shape Shoulder: At armhole edge, BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts 3 (3, 2, 2, 3) times.
  15.  BO 0 (0, 5, 5, 0) sts, 0 (0, 1, 1, 0) times. 
HOOD
Note: Work all shapings at one edge, keeping opposite edge straight.
  1. Starting at LHS, using closed edge CO method and MC, CO 6 sts. RC=000.
  2. K 1 R. COL.
  3. Shape Hood: Inc 1 st at beg of next R and every foll R at shaped edge, 18 times. 24 sts. RC=019.
  4. K 4 R. COL.
  5. CO 14 sts at carr edge. 38 sts. Pm at shaped edge (marker A). 
  6. K 2 R. RC=025.
  7. Inc 1 st at beg of next and E4R, 15 times. 53 sts. RC=085. 
  8. K 2 R.
  9. Dec 1 st at shaped edge every R, 20 times. 33 sts. RC=107. 
  10. K 2 R. Mark edges for center fold line. Reset RC=000. 
  11. Inc 1 st at shaped edge every R, 20 times. 53 sts. RC=020. 
  12. K 2 R.
  13. Dec 1 st at beg of next R, and E4R, 15 times. 38 sts. RC=082.
  14. K 2 R. Pm at shaped edge (marker B).
  15. BO 14 st at shaped edge. 24 sts.
  16. K 4 R.
  17. Dec 1 st at beg of next and every foll R at shaped edge, 18 times. 6 sts. RC=106.
  18. K 1 R.
  19. BO.
  20. Fold at center fold line, aligning markers A and B. Sew seam bet fold and markers, matching stripes if necessary.
FRONT BAND
  1. Starting at LHS, using closed edge CO method and appropriate color (see Notes), CO 11 sts. RC=000.
  2. K 1 R. Working from 3rd st on RHS to 3rd st on LHS, convert to 1x1 rib.
  3. K to RC=826 (826, 834, 844, 846), converting to 1x1 rib as above on ea R.
  4. BO.
ARMHOLE BANDS (make 2)
  1. Work as for Front Band to RC=134 (140, 144, 152, 156), converting to 1x1 rib as instructed.
  2. BO.
FINISHING Assembly
Work as for Hand Knitting Version.









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