Friday, October 5, 2018

Hooded Bliss - Free USM Pattern

Hooded Bliss
Designed by Kathy Perry

Level of Difficulty: intermediate

SIZES:
S (M, L): 30 (34, 38)”

FINISHED BUST MEASUREMENT: 
34 (38, 42)”

FINISHED LENGTH FROM BACK NECK: 19 (20, 21)”

MATERIALS
11 (11, 12) 50g/1.76oz (82yds/75m) skeins of Caron® International’s Bliss™ (60% Acrylic, 40% Nylon) in #0001 Snow (MY);
2 170g/6-oz skeins of Caron® International’s Simply Soft® (100% Acrylic ) in #9701 

White for trim and cording, if hand knitting, 
#US 7 (4.5mm) for Simply Soft
#US 10 (6mm) for Bliss OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE.  
If using USM, KP2 for Simply Soft and KP4 for Bliss. 
Embellish Knit! or Cool Corder for cording.
Needle and thread
Tapestry needle
Transfer tool for machine knitting
Four stitch holders for hand knitting.


GAUGE
13 sts and 20 rows = 4” in St st using #US 10 (6mm) needles or KP4 and Bliss (MY)
18 sts and 23 rows = 4” in St st using #US 7 (4.5mm) needles or KP2 and Simply Soft

NUMBER OF USM NEEDLES REQUIRED
57 (64, 72). Hood is worked by hand.


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MACHINE INSTRUCTIONS
PATTERN STITCH
Using Simply Soft for cuffs and front of hood: Reform sts foll chart. Sts marked x (every 4th st) are changed from knit to purl every 4th row.  Note also how reformed sts are staggered.

BACK
  1. COR. Using KP4, CO 57 (64, 72) sts in WY with open edge method. Work 6 rows. 
  2. Hem/Casing: Change to MY and work St st for 10 rows. Using transfer tool, lift sts from first row of MY so there are 2 sts on each needle. K 1 row slowly. Set RC to 000.
  3. Work to RC=046 (050, 052). 
  4. Shape Armhole: BO 3 (4,5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cont until RC=098 (104, 110) - 51 (56, 62) sts. 
  5. Shape Back Neckline: BO center 17 (20, 22) sts. Each side has 17 (18, 20) sts.  BO or remove sts to WY.
FRONT (right)
  1. Make 2 pocket linings - 16 sts by 22 rows. Put sts on WY and set aside.
  2. 2.  COR. Using KP4, CO 29 (33, 37) sts in WY with open edge method. Work 6 rows. 
  3. Follow directions for hem as for back and work until RC=020.
  4. Insert Pocket: COR.  Work 6 (8, 12) sts and place on WY. Cont working rem sts on machine - dec next st and then dec 1 st every row (right side) 15 times for angled pocket opening.  Place sts on WY.
  5. Add Pocket Lining: Put lining sts on machine with wrong side facing. Put 6 (8, 12) sts from WY on machine on right side next to lining. COR. Work 16 rows. 
  6. Rejoin Pocket: Reset RC to 036. Put second group of sts from WY on left side of sts on machine and work across all sts.
  7. Cont working until RC=046 (050, 052).
  8. Shape Armhole: BO for right armhole as for back. Cont to RC=081 (087, 091).
  9. Shape Neckline: COL. BO 5 (6, 7) sts at neck edge. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 4 (5, 5) times, until 17 (18, 20) sts rem. Cont to RC=098 (104, 110). BO or remove sts to WY.
  10. Work left front with rev shaping.
SLEEVES
  1. COR. Using KP2, CO 51 (51, 55) sts in Simply Soft with closed edge method. Set RC to 000.
  2. Work in patt st for 32 rows. Remove sts to WY. With right side facing front, rehang sts on 38 (38, 40) needles by doubling up on st 3 & 4 and doubling last sts. Change to KP4 and MY. Set RC to 000. 
  3. Inc 1 st at each side every 6 (5, 5) rows 11 (9, 4) times, then every 0 (6, 6) rows 0 (4, 9) times – 60 (64, 66) sts.
  4. Work to RC=086 (092, 098).
  5. BO loosely.

HOOD – See Hand Instructions for hood.
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HAND INSTRUCTIONS
PATTERN STITCH using Simply Soft for cuffs and front of hood:
Rows 1, 8, 16, 24, etc. – Work St st reforming (changing K to P or P to K) 4th st and every foll 4th st across row.
Rows 4, 12, 20, 28, etc. – Work St st reforming 2nd st and every foll 4th st across row.

BACK
  1. CO 57 (64, 72) sts on #10 needles with MY.
  2. Work in St st until piece measures 10 (10 ½ , 11)” from beg.
  3. Shape Armhole: BO 3 (4, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 51 (56, 62) sts. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9 ½, 10)”.
  4. Shape Back Neckline: BO 17 (18, 21) sts at beg of next 2 rows. BO rem 17 (20, 20) sts for back neck.
FRONT (right)
  1. Make 2 pocket linings -16 sts by 22 rows. Put sts on holders and set aside.
  2. CO 29 (33, 37) sts on #10 needles with MY. 
  3. Work in St st until piece measures 6” from beg ending with RS row.
  4. Insert Pocket: Work 6 (8, 12) sts and place on holder. Cont working across row - dec next st and then dec 1 st on same side each row 15 times. Place sts on holder.
  5. Add Pocket Lining: Take holder sts from lining and place on needle and then add 6 (8, 12) sts from holder. Starting on WS, work to the depth of the pocket ending on WS row.
  6. Rejoin by working across all stitches (lining and pocket sts).
  7. Cont until piece measures 10 (10 ½, 11)” from beg ending with RS row.
  8. Shape Armhole: BO for right armhole as for back. Cont working until armhole measures 6 (6 ½, 6 ½)” ending with WS row.
  9. Shape Neckline: BO next 4 (6, 6) sts at beg of next row. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times, until 17 (18, 21) sts rem. 
  10. Cont until armhole measures 9 (9 ½, 10)”. BO 17 (18, 21) shoulder sts.
  11. Work left front with rev shaping.
SLEEVES
  1. CO 51 (51, 55) sts on #7 needles with Simply Soft. Work in patt st for 5” ending with K row.
  2. Change to #10 needles and MY.  Start with a K row and dec 13 (13, 15) sts evenly across row – 38 (38, 40) sts.
  3. Inc 1 st at each end every 5 (6, 6) rows 4 (3, 11) times, then every 7 (6, 7) rows 6 (9, 1) time(s) – 58 (62, 64) sts
  4. Cont until sleeve measures 15 (16, 17)” from beg of MY.
  5. BO loosely.
HOOD
  1. CO 170 sts on #7 needles with Simply Soft. Work in patt st for 5” ending with K row.
  2. Change to #10 needles and MY. Start with a K row and dec 50 sts evenly across next row – 120 sts.
  3. Dec 1 st each side every 5 (4, 5) rows 7 (10, 9) times – 106 (100, 102) sts.
  4. Work 1 row.  BO.
FINISHING
  1. Block to finished dimensions.
  2. Sew shoulder seams tog and sew sleeve to armhole, easing to fit.
  3. Sew rem seams.
  4. On hand knit version only turn up 1” hem/casing and whip stitch in place.
  5. Turn Simply Soft trim on sleeves to front side and tack in place with needle and thread.
  6. Sew trim on hood in place in same manner.
  7. Sew back seam of hood and sew hood to neckline with hood bands at center front. Ease fullness to fit neckline.
  8. Baste and sew zipper in place.
  9. Measure around sleeve bottom trim. Using cord maker, make cording to measurement and tack in place using needle and thread. Note: Allow 1” extra and unravel as needed to fit seam.
  10. Measure around zipper and up around hood trim. Using cord maker, make cording to measurement and tack in place using needle and thread. Note: Make extra length and unravel as needed to fit.
  11. Bottom hem may remain as finished or used as casing for cording.  Measure and make cording and thread through hem/casing if desired.
  12. Finish pocket lining and pocket opening: Pick up 20 sts on pocket opening. Work 5 rows Garter st in Simply Soft with #7 needles, decreasing 1 st on lower edge and increasing 1 st on top edge on row 3.  BO loosely. Tack lining in place and sew pocket opening ends in place.
  13. Weave in all loose ends.


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